TExtile Collaboration
The Collaboration
Thomas Jefferson University encourages fashion design students and textile design students to collaborate on original textiles. For this capstone project, Lauren collaborated with textile design student, Alex Winch. Alex specializes in jacquards and animal inspired patterns.
The Pattern
The pattern is a reflected designed. Originally sketched by Lauren leading up to the collaboration. The concept was inspired by butterflies reimagined in abstract ways. Alex refined the pattern and incorporated his own interpretation through a classic wedding symbol, doves. Both designers wanted to be challenged with creating a gradient color pallete.
Final Construction
The pattern was thoughtfully engineered with the final garments in mind. The gradients robe was the biggest accomplishment, as the entire robe's pattern is completely symmetrical. So specifically down to the threads on the seams line up exactly.
Meet the Designer
Lauren N. Schuler
Lauren is graduating from Thomas Jefferson University in May 2023. She is graduating with a Bachelor's of Science in Fashion Design. Lauren has been obsessed with wedding dress her entire life, from playing dress up to illustrating. "Looking into old sketchbooks from elementary school on, I was always drawing big skirts and beautiful fabrics. It was how I knew I have always been on the right path". Moving into her final years in college, Lauren's main focus was on special occasions wear and lingerie. She gained experience through two bridal industry internships which lead to her taking on a full-time role after graduation. "Wherever I end up I hope to always stay creative and keep my passion alive".
Concept Development
In the beginning stages of this capstone project, I would have never guessed that it would go this far. Using donated dresses and women's stories was not apart of my initial concept. I knew that I wanted to have a sustainable element in my project, recycling used wedding dresses. Looking at thrift stores for wedding dresses, it was not only expensive but it was boring. I didn't know where the dresses came from, I didn't want to take a perfectly good dress away from someone who might need it, and it didn't have any emotional significance. Talking to a mentor about feeling stuck, they suggested I place an ad out and see what response I get. The summer of 2022 I placed a Facebook ad out for pre-loved wedding dresses. The response was incredible! So many women love the idea, re-shared my post and wanted to donate. Initially I received seven dresses, two more a few months later.
Reflection
Going into my capstone project, I never would have expected that it would take me this far. The amount of support and love that I received was incredible. I still can't believe that women were so kind to donate such a precious item to me blindly.
The pressure I had put on myself to do every dress and woman justice was immense. Wedding dresses are emotional and carry so much meaning. It hurt my sole to cut into one for the very first time. I struggled the most emotionally with Marie's 1941 dress. Something that should be in an archive is now being cut up. I spent a great deal of time on that dress specifically to make sure that it was well taken care of and carried that timeless style with it.
Overall, I am extremely proud of what I have accomplished here. It was amazing to be able to pour my heart and sole into this passion project over the past year.
The Process
The idea for reconstructing the dresses was to take away the previous designer's work and create my own, whilst keeping the essence of the original dress. I also wanted to eliminate waste during this process as much as possible. I tried to use every part of the dress either in a new look or through accessories.
I started every dress with a bath. Most of the dresses came in color faded and a little smelly (sorry!). The dresses were bleached and washed multiple times. Than the deconstruction process. Each dress was completely taken apart. Every seam pulled apart, pieces of lace picked off, and linings taken out. Each dress was then bagged up and labeled. I tracked and labeled every scrap to be able to track it back to its donor. During this time I also dye tested every fabric and was able to create a good assumption on the dresses true fiber content.
Muslin garments were draped then patterned. Using those patterns I was able to precisely cut into the fabrics. The garment were re-sewn and re-decorated.
Comments on the Project
I want to say thank you to all of the women who participated in this project. You donated your special dress with no context of what it would turn into. I am extremely grateful for this and I hope that you are happy with its final outcome! I am excited for your dress to live on it a brand now and re-imagined life.
Sustainable practices such as recycling used garments to becoming increasingly important. Similarly to changing our mindsets to being open to wearing a used garments for all occasions, even wedding days. Re-inventing old styles and trends is possible in wedding dresses and a great way to feel connected to loved ones.